If you've every worked a disaster recovery, whether it's a hurricane, bad snow storm or flooding, you're probably already familiar with how badly standard drywall can take on moisture and create serious mold problems. Following the Joplin, Missouri EF-5 mile-wide tornado that wiped out the center of this small Midwestern city, doctors began to notice numerous complaints where wounds suffered from the debris in the tornado actually began growing mold, eventually leading to the death of five additional victims. Though most molds and mildews found on a daily basis aren't quite this serious, they can still cause significant health problems if left unchecked. The best way to keep these problematic fungi from taking over your home and making you sick? Mold-resistant drywall. Here are more details on how this specialty drywall can help keep your home in good order.

What is mold-resistant drywall?

Regular drywall contains some amount of moisture, but not enough to outright cause problems with mold. To reach that point, it needs to get wet, though not very much, for mold to colonize and spread, often through the paper coating. By comparison, mold-resistant drywall is paper-free, to keep mold from having a place it can get a foothold. It also is more resistant to moisture, though it's not fully waterproof, so it soaks up less moisture, making a less habitable environment for mold and mildew.

How does it work?

Regular drywall is manufactured using a gypsum slurry that has had air added to it which is then poured between two pieces of special facing paper, then the entire assembly is passed between rollers to ensure a uniform thickness. It then has the edges formed and sealed before being cut to length and dried. Mold-resistant drywall goes through a very similar process, but without the paper facing on both sides. Without the paper, it's harder for moisture to wick up the board and further into the gypsum in the middle, so mold doesn't really have a place to grab hold. It also absorbs moisture much more slowly than the gypsum portion of standard drywall. Though it's not a completely moisture-proof wallboard, it is much more resistant to moisture than standard drywall.

Does it cost a lot more?

Though it is a little more, moisture-resistant drywall is not especially expensive. You'll pay a few dollars more per sheet as a premium for the mold- and moisture-resistance, but compared to the cost of ripping out the drywall, repairing the wall and refinishing it, the cost is fairly reasonable for areas where moisture may end up being a long-term problem.As a value-added product, it can often be an easy sell to prospective clients as it provides them with additional protection both at the time of construction as well as insurance against problems in the future.

Where should I use it?

Mold-resistant drywall is best used in places where moisture may be a problem, such as in a basement, garage, kitchen or bathroom. Another part of your home to consider are those areas that tends to have cool, moist environments where mold and mildew can thrive and spread. If you have areas where you've noticed condensation forming on the wall surface in the past, it's also an area that's a prime candidate for mold-resistant drywall, though you may also want to consider adding an effective, well-sealed vapor barrier and insulation to help reduce heat transference and condensation.

á hbspt.cta.load(385819, '7f9ea118-e8d9-4beb-981d-b890f55ec25e', {});

As building science improves, the attention paid to the building envelope, the parts of the structure that separates the outside from the inside, is becoming more and more detailed. But what parts make up the building envelope, and what functions do they serve in that capacity? In this post, we'll take a solid look at what a solid building envelope entails.

Bottom FlooráandáFoundation Wall System

How many times have you heard about problems with leaking basements or drafty sill plates? Sealing your foundation wall system is just as important as having good drainage away from your walls.

• Sheet Foam. If you have concerns about heaving from ice heaves, insulating your foundation floor with sheet foam can help reduce this problem. It's a common tactic used in northern climates where it's too hard to get to the frost line.
• Membrane. Worried about damp soil or water infiltration? Modern waterproofing membranes provide long-term, durable protection for your basement.
• Sealant. For those problem areas where your utilities come through or you have small drafts, caulk or weatherstripping can go a long way to help keep the cold winter air out.
• Spray Foam. For larger gaps or to provide better insulation, spray foam is an excellent option. It helps seal as well as providing a heat barrier.

Above-Grade Wall System

As an example of poor wall design and retrofit, a small farmhouse dating to the late 1800's had wooden clapboard siding on the outside and stucco on wooden lathing strips on the inside. During one particular renovation, the stucco was removed by being struck until the cement cracked, and it was then removed from the interior of the house and replaced with wood paneling. At the same time, insulation was added by drilling through the upper part of each wall cavity and blowing in cellulose. Unfortunately, the stucco keys from the backside of the lathing fell down to the bottom of the wall cavity, allowing wind to blow through in the winter, creating a terrible draft. Hence the importance of good wall design.

• Insulation. Whether you're considering blowing cellulose in a retrofit, installing fiberglass batting to a new construction or adding sheet foam to the exterior, insulation is your first line of thermal defense in your walls and roof.
• Studs. If you get extreme winds or cold, you may want to consider doing an offset design with your studs to prevent thermal transference.
• Structure Wrap. Whether you're adding house wrap or a more specialized commercial structure wrap, this layer helps prevent air from entering the building envelope anywhere except where you want it to.
• Tape. Don't forget the joints! To get the best performance, make sure you seal the joints in insulation, sheet foam or houseáwrap with tape, otherwise these areas become prime areas of air infiltration.

Through-Wall System

Any point air can pass through the structure's walls is a potential point of failure for your building envelope. There are three basic points where a building component passes through the envelope entirely.

• Windows. There are a variety of new technologies at play in windows, from insulated, multi-pane windows that help create insulative space between panes to special coatings that reflect heat back into a structure.
• Doors. Exterior doors in our part of the country should always have insulation to help prevent thermal bridging. A properly-fitted storm door that helps keep wind off your exterior door will help keep your home warmer.
• Weatherstripping and Caulk. Your doors and windows are only as good as the sealant used to keep the wind out around them. A 1/8" gap around a door is the same as a 6" hole in the middle.
• Utility Inlet or Outlet. Don't forget to seal around these key areas. For exhaust systems, make sure to put baffles in that willárestrict airflow when they're not in use.

Roofing Seal System

If your roof won't keep the water out, what's the point? Having your roof well-sealed helps prevent moisture from building up inside, causing significant damage and potential health issues.

• Sealant. This keeps water from getting behind flashing or around pipes or vents that protrude through the roof.
• Extra Protection in Problem Areas. If you have valleys, dormers or other areas where water tends to leak, make sure they're sealed up right.
• Roofing Material. You can have the best roof in the world, but it won't protect your home if it's not wind resistant. Make sure your roof design will hold up to harsh weather.

hbspt.cta.load(385819, '8c4e74c4-9220-42a6-9966-8bc4e97d029a', {}); á

When you're working on pounding something in, a hammer is a hammer, right? Not necessarily. There are a wide variety of specialty hammers for a range of purposes, some of which work for general use and some of which do not. Here's a quick rundown on the different types of hammers available today:

Different Hammer Types and Uses

Claw Hammer - When most people think of a hammer, this is the kind of hammer they're picturing. With a flat face, sometimes cross-hatched to provide a better "grip" on the nail's surface and a curved claw on the back for removing nails or prying up board ends, a claw hammer is the most widely-used hammer on the market and shows up in most tool kits on a regular basis.

Framing Hammer - Though it's very similar to the claw hammer in appearance, a framing hammer has a claw that is much less curved than you'll find on a claw hammer. This is because they're typically used for assembly rather than general purpose. To make up for the lack of leverage that a claw hammer's curve provides, these hammers also feature longer handles and are heavier to pack a stronger punch on every blow.

Ball Peen Hammer - Though they're used for a variety of purposes, the ball peen hammer is, at heart, a metalworking hammer. Used for peening rivets and other small metalworking tasks, the hammer has a flat face for flattening pieces of metal and a ball face that is half rounded to focus force on a very small area of metal, mushrooming it out to finish the connection the rivet holds in place. They also are designed to slip along the metal, so you'll have a harder time trying to drive nails with them.

Cross and Straight Peen Hammer - Used in metalworking, upholstery and cabinetmaking, a cross and straight peen hammer provides two different surfaces, one of which is used on metal and the other of which is often used to start tacks or panel pins. The straight part of the peen can be either in the same angle as the handle or perpendicular to it.

Cross Peen Pin Hammer - Lighter in weight than the cross and straight peen hammer, the cross peen pin hammer is a favorite of cabinetmakers and for joinery work. It can also be used in fine metalworking, such as miniature work and jewelry making.

Brick Hammer - In terms of profile, a brick hammer resembles a framing hammer, but the similarities stop there. Instead of a claw, the brick hammer has a chisel, used to score a brick with a line that is then broken using the face of the hammer.

Chasing Hammer - Another metalworking hammer, a chasing hammer is used to spread out a sheet of metal or put a curve into it. They'll often have two different faces on them and can be used in jewelry making.

Welders Hammer - Resembling a cross between an old-fashioned wood stove tool and a hammer, the welder's hammer has a coil that helps dissipate heat and prevent burns, typically with a pointed tip on one end of the head and a chisel on the other.á

Club Hammer - This is essentially a sledge hammer with a shorter handle for working in smaller areas or when the full leverage of a sledge hammer isn't needed.

Sledge Hammer - When you really need to drive something home, a sledge hammer is the way to go. With a head starting out at about eight pounds and a long handle, this hammer gives you the advantage of leverage in delivering a powerful blow.

á hbspt.cta.load(385819, '0996ce59-9fd3-4fc3-82bd-e5cfa0d3524a', {});

http://www.stanleytools.com/en-US/products/hand-tools/hammers/sledge/212-lb-jacketed-fiberglass-engineer-hammer/56-202

http://www.stanleytools.com/en-US/products/hand-tools/hammers/ball-pein/16-oz-wood-handle-ball-pein-hammer/54-016

rockindave1 / Foter / CC BY

Now that you've decided to use vinyl siding in your construction project, it's time to take a good look at how to install it properly. Unfortunately, there are several areas where you can easily make a mistake and mess up your installation. By keeping these tips in mind when you're ready to put your vinyl up, you'll get professional results without any amateur mistakes.

10 Mistakes When Installing Vinyl Siding

• Not upgrading when you have the chance. This is the first and worst mistake you can make in your vinyl siding installation. By skimping on your materials, you often end up with a thin, low-quality vinyl that can sag between fasteners, is pulled off the wall in high winds or can crack, fade or otherwise not look great for very long.
• No foam behind the siding. This can even be a 1/4" fan-folded foam that provides a little extra cushion for your siding, protecting it from smaller impacts. True story: a friend was hosting an archery event at his home and they were trying out the new bird blunts they'd received. His vinyl siding was slapped on directly over the OSB and had no give in it, so when an arrow missed the backstop, it punched a perfectly round, quarter-sized hole in his siding.
• No expansion room or nailing too tightly. If you're installing in cool temperatures, remember the vinyl expands when summer's heat is on. Most installers will leave 1/4" of expansion room when installing in cooler temperatures, or even 3/8" when the mercury dips below 40 degrees. You'll also need to remember to leave about 1/32" of space between the bottom of the nail head and the top of the siding, so the siding is able to slide as it expands and contracts.
• Not nailing it down often enough. Much like using a thin siding, not nailing the vinyl down often enough can lead to sagging, especially when it gets hot out. Vinyl siding has become so easy to install, it's easy to skimp in the steps.á
• Employing the power washer. Though you won't usually damage the vinyl using pressure to clean it, a power washer will drive water up behind the siding. This trapped water can cause moisture and mold or mildew problems in your home, so keep the pressure off when it's time for your final clean up.
• Too much overlap at joints. If a little overlap is okay, a lot is better, right? Not when you're dealing with vinyl siding. The industry standard is 1-1.25" of overlap, but if you go too far over that measurement, it can actually restrict movement when the siding expands. That binding can make the siding get a wavy appearance.
• Using short pieces. Many manufacturers now offer vinyl siding in longer lengths, including 16' and 20' pieces. By using longer pieces, you can reduce how many seams you have in your installation. Fewer seams mean fewer places for water to leak through and a neater overall appearance.
• Not reusing small pieces. You can greatly reduce your project expenses by planning your order around your smaller spaces. Do you have an 8' section of wall followed by a window, a 4' wall space and a door? Order 12' pieces and cut them into 8' and 4' sections instead of spending more on multiple 8' pieces.
• Not staggering your seams. When you're installing your vinyl siding, it's easy to get into a rhythm and stack your seams one on top of another. Make sure you stagger your seams whenever possible to avoid creating obvious seams.á
• Going easy on the flashing. Vinyl siding is only water-resistant, not water-tight. It's important to get enough flashing at roof edges, windows, doors and problem areas to prevent problems.

hbspt.cta.load(385819, '093b06c4-986f-46fb-bdd0-d169cc93ba17', {});

Sources:

Photo credit: williamhartz / Foter / CC BY-NC-SA

Photo credit: williamhartz / Foter / CC BY-NC-SA

https://prestonfeather.wordpress.com/2013/08/29/5-mistakes-to-avoid-while-installing-vinyl-siding/

Metal framing is a very practical approach to building. It solves a lot of the problems that builders face when building with traditional materials. The low cost and benefits are attracting the eyes of many businesses, organizations, and now residential builders.

Steel framing lowers your construction costs

When you build with steel, there are no warranty issues, because metal will not shrink, warp, or split. You have no nail pop issues or drywall cracks that need fixed once your structure is finished. You also save on all the job-site expenses involved with hauling off and getting rid of wood and discarded materials. An additional benefit is a significant savings on builders risk insurance.

Metal framing studs weigh about a third less than their wood counterparts. That makes them much easier to handle. They can also be installed using a 24 inch center. When it comes time to market the building, consumers understand the value of metal framing from its known durability. Metal framing will not rot, get termites, mold, or pick up any type of insect infestations. These types of problems give homeowners fits on a regular basis.

Metal framing promotes IAQ (indoor air quality) because it will not emit any VOCs (volatile organic compounds). In today's 'green' world, metal framing is very attractive. This is because it contains a bare minimum of only 25% recycled steel, and is itself 100% recyclable. That makes it a 'green' enthusiasts dream. Metal framing will also perform better during seismic events and high wind situations.

Additional Benefits of Metal Framing

Panelized Construction - Speed and less work are two more benefits of metal framing. In most all residentialáapplications that are wood framed, the material used for the floor, the walls, and the roof sheathing, will be plywood or OSB. When panelized construction is done, a lot of these steps will be eliminated, and the only framing responsibility will be to position and fasten the already pre-assembled components. It's faster.

Metal is lighter and much easier to move around - With stick framing builders have to cut their lumber to size, frame , insulate, drill holes for the wiring, and sheath. With steel panels you have a custom made piece ready to put in place. When they arrive at the job-site, they are already cut to size, framed, insulated, with molded wire chases. The steps that are eliminate lower the labor costs quite substantially. Any adjustments are easily made onsite and in no time.

The bottom line is this - Metal framing is better than wood because it is stronger for withstanding hurricanes, earthquakes, big snows, high winds, and all types of weather. It is environmentally safe, won't warp, is non-combustible, and is not eaten by termites. There are loads of benefits to take advantage of.

hbspt.cta.load(385819, '008cb463-2917-49cc-ab3f-12ed4a3a6f33', {});

Photo credit: cwwycoff1 / Foter / Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic (CC BY 2.0),áMaryland National Guard / Foter / Creative Commons Attribution-NoDerivs 2.0 Generic (CC BY-ND 2.0)