When you're in the market for a truly exceptional ladder that will provide years of durable service but still remain lightweight and easy to maneuver, there's no manufacturer in the industry like Featherlite Industrial Ladders. Started in Canada in 1949, the manufacturer has recently reinvented itself in a position as the manufacturers of leanest and most flexible ladders worldwide, all while developing a Best-in-Class customer support team. Because of these changes in global sourcing and similar areas, we thought we'd take you through a look at the different products and features available from Featherlite.

Products and Features

• Extra-Wide Steps and Platforms: Featherlite's XW series is an extra-wide stepladder and platform system that has a 70% larger surface area, providing a much larger footprint that increases safety, along with the wider stance once set up and the rubber-coated feet to provided added security and slip protection. These ladders and platforms are rated between 300-375 pounds, depending on the exact model selected.

• Fiberglass Step Ladders: All Featherlite's fiberglass step ladders feature non-conductive rails, a copolymer top to provide extra strength (with the exception of the 6600 two-way series), extra-deep 3" steps in serrated slip-resistant aluminum and skid-resistant boots. The 6900 and above series are rated to 300 or 375 pounds with a non-conductive C-channel side rail and PVC boots to provide added skid resistance.

• Fiberglass Straight and Extension Ladders: Featuring large, heavy-duty pivot feet and ice picks to provide a secure base, Featherlite's fiberglass straight and extension ladders use black ABS end caps to prevent damage to the ladder rails, slip-resistant rungs that are serrated for better slip resistance, riveted attachment of rungs to rails to maintain fiber integrity and non-conductive fiberglass rails, available in a range of duty ratings from 225-375 pounds.

• Aluminum Step Ladders: Featherlite's aluminum step ladder series features 3" wide safety steps for better traction, a duty rating from 200-300 pounds, slip-resistant feet and extruded or tubular rails, depending on the model. The sawhorse series provides a great base for simple work platforms and scaffolds, while the platform steps provide a large, comfortable platform that increases worker safety.

• Aluminum Straight and Extension Ladders: With C-channel rails on light and medium duty ladders and I-beam rails on extra heavy duty ladders, the Featherlite's aluminum straight and extension ladder line provides superior performance, resistance to torque and stability in a lightweight package. This series' slip resistant serrated rungs help ensure worker safety on the job and non-slip feet to help provide a solid base to work from.

• Multi-Purpose Ladders: Featherlite has an excellent line of multi-purpose ladders, starting with the 2700 series heavy-duty 3-way ladder that switches quickly and easily from a stepladder to an extension ladder and stairway ladder while featuring all the high-quality features you've come to expect - ABS end caps, safety shoes, swivel feet, and high-quality aluminum in a durable, lightweight package. The 3316 articulating ladder provides a wide range of configurations to meet the needs of any project in a extra-heavy-duty package with swivel feet for stability, and the Jaws series provides an excellent all-purpose, super-heavy-duty rating of 375 pounds, with extra-deep side rails, strong polymer rung locks, and exceptional stability and adaptability created from extruded 6061-T6 marine alloy aluminum for better resistance to corrosion.

• Rolling Steel Systems: Available with or without a strong handrail at 42", the rolling steel series are rated to 400 pounds while featuring 1" 16 gauge steel tubing construction, 15" platform depth, 7.5" by 24" perforated steps to reduce slipping and a blue enamel finish. The non-handrail series includes 3" spring-loaded swivel castors and a total width of 26" while the handrail series features 6" by 2" polyolefin wheels in the rear and rubber 5" by 1-1/4" RSX swivel castors in the front. This is a serious step and platform system that would work exceptionally well in any warehouse or workshop.

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When you're working on pounding something in, a hammer is a hammer, right? Not necessarily. There are a wide variety of specialty hammers for a range of purposes, some of which work for general use and some of which do not. Here's a quick rundown on the different types of hammers available today:

Different Hammer Types and Uses

Claw Hammer - When most people think of a hammer, this is the kind of hammer they're picturing. With a flat face, sometimes cross-hatched to provide a better "grip" on the nail's surface and a curved claw on the back for removing nails or prying up board ends, a claw hammer is the most widely-used hammer on the market and shows up in most tool kits on a regular basis.

Framing Hammer - Though it's very similar to the claw hammer in appearance, a framing hammer has a claw that is much less curved than you'll find on a claw hammer. This is because they're typically used for assembly rather than general purpose. To make up for the lack of leverage that a claw hammer's curve provides, these hammers also feature longer handles and are heavier to pack a stronger punch on every blow.

Ball Peen Hammer - Though they're used for a variety of purposes, the ball peen hammer is, at heart, a metalworking hammer. Used for peening rivets and other small metalworking tasks, the hammer has a flat face for flattening pieces of metal and a ball face that is half rounded to focus force on a very small area of metal, mushrooming it out to finish the connection the rivet holds in place. They also are designed to slip along the metal, so you'll have a harder time trying to drive nails with them.

Cross and Straight Peen Hammer - Used in metalworking, upholstery and cabinetmaking, a cross and straight peen hammer provides two different surfaces, one of which is used on metal and the other of which is often used to start tacks or panel pins. The straight part of the peen can be either in the same angle as the handle or perpendicular to it.

Cross Peen Pin Hammer - Lighter in weight than the cross and straight peen hammer, the cross peen pin hammer is a favorite of cabinetmakers and for joinery work. It can also be used in fine metalworking, such as miniature work and jewelry making.

Brick Hammer - In terms of profile, a brick hammer resembles a framing hammer, but the similarities stop there. Instead of a claw, the brick hammer has a chisel, used to score a brick with a line that is then broken using the face of the hammer.

Chasing Hammer - Another metalworking hammer, a chasing hammer is used to spread out a sheet of metal or put a curve into it. They'll often have two different faces on them and can be used in jewelry making.

Welders Hammer - Resembling a cross between an old-fashioned wood stove tool and a hammer, the welder's hammer has a coil that helps dissipate heat and prevent burns, typically with a pointed tip on one end of the head and a chisel on the other.á

Club Hammer - This is essentially a sledge hammer with a shorter handle for working in smaller areas or when the full leverage of a sledge hammer isn't needed.

Sledge Hammer - When you really need to drive something home, a sledge hammer is the way to go. With a head starting out at about eight pounds and a long handle, this hammer gives you the advantage of leverage in delivering a powerful blow.

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http://www.stanleytools.com/en-US/products/hand-tools/hammers/sledge/212-lb-jacketed-fiberglass-engineer-hammer/56-202

http://www.stanleytools.com/en-US/products/hand-tools/hammers/ball-pein/16-oz-wood-handle-ball-pein-hammer/54-016

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Cost is a chief concern among building contractors, but often, the quest for an inexpensive project leads to the creation of structures that are very susceptible to fire. Ideally, a construction project will be resistant to fire, but also limited in terms of expenses. These goals may seem impossible in conjunction, but can easily be accomplished if the following considerations are kept in mind:

Drywall: An Inexpensive Fire Solution

For years, drywall has served as the building material of choice among commercial contractors. The use of gypsum in drywall allows this relatively inexpensive material to serve as a form of passive fire protection. When exposed to heat, the water naturally contained in the drywall's gypsum turns into vapor, thus preventing the further spread of fire.

Drywall is unique in that, despite its natural resistance to fire, it is every bit as affordable as alternative building materials. In fact, drywall delivery in Boston is popular because it actually delivers significant savings when compared to other materials commonly used in commercial construction. The material also contributes to a streamlined construction process, as it is notoriously easy to ship and assemble.

Fire Retardant Treated Wood

Although affordable and in plentiful supply in the Boston area, untreated lumber proves problematic as a building material, due to its susceptibility to fire. Fortunately, this risk can be mitigated with the help of retardants. When applied to wood, these serve as an extra barrier against the spread of fire. In doing so, the retardants enable commercial buildings constructed with lumber to meet Boston building codes. More importantly, they keep the individuals working in said buildings safe. By slowing the rate of destruction, retardants make it easier for affected structures' occupants to escape while also preventing the complete destruction of the building before help arrives.

Perhaps the greatest advantage of fire retardant treated wood is that, compared to materials classified as noncombustible, it proves surprisingly affordable. This treatment does not actually make wood noncombustible, but it does allow for an effective and affordable alternative to the common construction materials that may be financially out of reach.

Fire-Resistant Interior Finishes

In general, Boston's guidelines for interior finishes are in keeping with federal guidelines. Finishes are separated into three distinct classes, with Class A finishes proving far more adept at slowing the spread of fire than Class B and C finishes. The City of Boston's general fire requirements mandate that interior finishes composed of foam and cellular plastic fire materials are prohibited when deemed a public safety hazard by the Head of the Boston Fire Department.

Choosing a finish that abides by Boston Fire Code and is still reasonably affordable can be difficult. Gypsum plaster finish is ideal, as, like drywall, it is very resistant to fire. Likewise, cement plaster finish is also excellent for fire prevention. Both of these finishes are very affordable, making them excellent for low-budget commercial construction projects.

Fire Walls

Depending on the nature of the materials and finishes used in a particular commercial construction project, fire walls may be necessary for the promotion of sound fire prevention.These walls can help structures that otherwise might not abide by federal and local fire codes meet all necessary requirements. Whether used to separate transformersáor to subdivide an entire building, a fire wall may serve as an effective means of protection in a structure built with combustible materials.

In the vast majority of modern structures, fire walls are constructed from concrete or, in some cases, reinforced concrete. Pipes or cable penetrating these fire walls must be protected with the assistance of firestop assemblies. Approved materials for firestops include silicone, intumescents and a select group of rubber compounds.

Careful consideration must be made when selecting building materials and finishes, as these will determine whether a given structure abides by fire code. More importantly, contractors should strive to create commercial structures that will keep occupants safe from the threat of fire. Look to gypsum, cement and fire-treated wood to ensure that every commercial building project remains both safe and affordable.

As an example, of just how fast fire can move through buildings, watch the video below of a construction worker stuck on a balcony as a fire consumes a building near the AIG campus in Houston, Texas.

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Photo credit: musicalwds / Foter / Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 2.0 Generic (CC BY-SA 2.0)
beltzner / Foter / Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 2.0 Generic (CC BY-SA 2.0)

As building science improves, the attention paid to the building envelope, the parts of the structure that separates the outside from the inside, is becoming more and more detailed. But what parts make up the building envelope, and what functions do they serve in that capacity? In this post, we'll take a solid look at what a solid building envelope entails.

Bottom FlooráandáFoundation Wall System

How many times have you heard about problems with leaking basements or drafty sill plates? Sealing your foundation wall system is just as important as having good drainage away from your walls.

• Sheet Foam. If you have concerns about heaving from ice heaves, insulating your foundation floor with sheet foam can help reduce this problem. It's a common tactic used in northern climates where it's too hard to get to the frost line.
• Membrane. Worried about damp soil or water infiltration? Modern waterproofing membranes provide long-term, durable protection for your basement.
• Sealant. For those problem areas where your utilities come through or you have small drafts, caulk or weatherstripping can go a long way to help keep the cold winter air out.
• Spray Foam. For larger gaps or to provide better insulation, spray foam is an excellent option. It helps seal as well as providing a heat barrier.

Above-Grade Wall System

As an example of poor wall design and retrofit, a small farmhouse dating to the late 1800's had wooden clapboard siding on the outside and stucco on wooden lathing strips on the inside. During one particular renovation, the stucco was removed by being struck until the cement cracked, and it was then removed from the interior of the house and replaced with wood paneling. At the same time, insulation was added by drilling through the upper part of each wall cavity and blowing in cellulose. Unfortunately, the stucco keys from the backside of the lathing fell down to the bottom of the wall cavity, allowing wind to blow through in the winter, creating a terrible draft. Hence the importance of good wall design.

• Insulation. Whether you're considering blowing cellulose in a retrofit, installing fiberglass batting to a new construction or adding sheet foam to the exterior, insulation is your first line of thermal defense in your walls and roof.
• Studs. If you get extreme winds or cold, you may want to consider doing an offset design with your studs to prevent thermal transference.
• Structure Wrap. Whether you're adding house wrap or a more specialized commercial structure wrap, this layer helps prevent air from entering the building envelope anywhere except where you want it to.
• Tape. Don't forget the joints! To get the best performance, make sure you seal the joints in insulation, sheet foam or houseáwrap with tape, otherwise these areas become prime areas of air infiltration.

Through-Wall System

Any point air can pass through the structure's walls is a potential point of failure for your building envelope. There are three basic points where a building component passes through the envelope entirely.

• Windows. There are a variety of new technologies at play in windows, from insulated, multi-pane windows that help create insulative space between panes to special coatings that reflect heat back into a structure.
• Doors. Exterior doors in our part of the country should always have insulation to help prevent thermal bridging. A properly-fitted storm door that helps keep wind off your exterior door will help keep your home warmer.
• Weatherstripping and Caulk. Your doors and windows are only as good as the sealant used to keep the wind out around them. A 1/8" gap around a door is the same as a 6" hole in the middle.
• Utility Inlet or Outlet. Don't forget to seal around these key areas. For exhaust systems, make sure to put baffles in that willárestrict airflow when they're not in use.

Roofing Seal System

If your roof won't keep the water out, what's the point? Having your roof well-sealed helps prevent moisture from building up inside, causing significant damage and potential health issues.

• Sealant. This keeps water from getting behind flashing or around pipes or vents that protrude through the roof.
• Extra Protection in Problem Areas. If you have valleys, dormers or other areas where water tends to leak, make sure they're sealed up right.
• Roofing Material. You can have the best roof in the world, but it won't protect your home if it's not wind resistant. Make sure your roof design will hold up to harsh weather.

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Now that you've decided to use vinyl siding in your construction project, it's time to take a good look at how to install it properly. Unfortunately, there are several areas where you can easily make a mistake and mess up your installation. By keeping these tips in mind when you're ready to put your vinyl up, you'll get professional results without any amateur mistakes.

10 Mistakes When Installing Vinyl Siding

• Not upgrading when you have the chance. This is the first and worst mistake you can make in your vinyl siding installation. By skimping on your materials, you often end up with a thin, low-quality vinyl that can sag between fasteners, is pulled off the wall in high winds or can crack, fade or otherwise not look great for very long.
• No foam behind the siding. This can even be a 1/4" fan-folded foam that provides a little extra cushion for your siding, protecting it from smaller impacts. True story: a friend was hosting an archery event at his home and they were trying out the new bird blunts they'd received. His vinyl siding was slapped on directly over the OSB and had no give in it, so when an arrow missed the backstop, it punched a perfectly round, quarter-sized hole in his siding.
• No expansion room or nailing too tightly. If you're installing in cool temperatures, remember the vinyl expands when summer's heat is on. Most installers will leave 1/4" of expansion room when installing in cooler temperatures, or even 3/8" when the mercury dips below 40 degrees. You'll also need to remember to leave about 1/32" of space between the bottom of the nail head and the top of the siding, so the siding is able to slide as it expands and contracts.
• Not nailing it down often enough. Much like using a thin siding, not nailing the vinyl down often enough can lead to sagging, especially when it gets hot out. Vinyl siding has become so easy to install, it's easy to skimp in the steps.á
• Employing the power washer. Though you won't usually damage the vinyl using pressure to clean it, a power washer will drive water up behind the siding. This trapped water can cause moisture and mold or mildew problems in your home, so keep the pressure off when it's time for your final clean up.
• Too much overlap at joints. If a little overlap is okay, a lot is better, right? Not when you're dealing with vinyl siding. The industry standard is 1-1.25" of overlap, but if you go too far over that measurement, it can actually restrict movement when the siding expands. That binding can make the siding get a wavy appearance.
• Using short pieces. Many manufacturers now offer vinyl siding in longer lengths, including 16' and 20' pieces. By using longer pieces, you can reduce how many seams you have in your installation. Fewer seams mean fewer places for water to leak through and a neater overall appearance.
• Not reusing small pieces. You can greatly reduce your project expenses by planning your order around your smaller spaces. Do you have an 8' section of wall followed by a window, a 4' wall space and a door? Order 12' pieces and cut them into 8' and 4' sections instead of spending more on multiple 8' pieces.
• Not staggering your seams. When you're installing your vinyl siding, it's easy to get into a rhythm and stack your seams one on top of another. Make sure you stagger your seams whenever possible to avoid creating obvious seams.á
• Going easy on the flashing. Vinyl siding is only water-resistant, not water-tight. It's important to get enough flashing at roof edges, windows, doors and problem areas to prevent problems.

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Sources:

Photo credit: williamhartz / Foter / CC BY-NC-SA

Photo credit: williamhartz / Foter / CC BY-NC-SA

https://prestonfeather.wordpress.com/2013/08/29/5-mistakes-to-avoid-while-installing-vinyl-siding/